Hanga Roa, Chile

Hurrah! Felt much better today and set out on a quad bike. A bike that clearly stated no passengers, not to go on roads and no insurance (none on the island). With a bit of a splutter we went towards the airport to pick up our National park permit (about £60 for 5 days), we then set off hunting Moai. We found our first on the south west tip at Vinapu, where he had fallen but face up for us to smile at! We screamed through town to the dramatic north coast and up to Hanga Kio’e which is a single upright Moai. The heavens opened as we searched for site of Ana Kakenga, we knew it was a cave but it was only the park ranger whistling at us and pointing that made us re-evaluate the foot wide gap in the earth to our left. It took some scrambling and crouching to get into a dark tunnel that opened out to standing. In front of us was a vista of the Pacific sea as we were stood in the cliff face. The caves were made thousands of years ago as lava erupted from a volcano. We emerged wet and filthy to a sunny sky. Back on the quad we took a long route to Ahu Akivi. These Maoi are the only ones mounted to face the sea rather inland. It is said that they are navigators or represent the first explorers and thus look out rather than facing/protecting a village. Fortunately we got lost on our way and ended up back in Hanga Roa, fortuitous because another driver spotted our flat tyre and we could change the quad for another one. We set off on the main road to cross the island up to the north east. Anakena is said to be the site where first islanders landed, there are two Moai sites here. A solo man and then a group on a mount in front of the beach. The group are in relatively good condition as they spent many years covered in sand before their discovery. What I cannot do justice to in words is the whole picture, the palm trees led us down to the Moai where they stood under a perfect blue sky, in front of a white sandy beach. A few photos and then we dived into the ocean to wash off our bike grime- bliss, cool crystal waters. After a couple of hours dozing under the palm trees we headed back to Hanga Roa, where we ate on the seafront watching surfers riding the waves as the sunset. Blew the budget on a great day!

Hanga Roa, Chile

Horrible night with sickness for both of us, thank goodness we have a private bathroom. I lay in my bed recovering till the afternoon totally frustrated to be in such a unique location but not leave the bathroom. Justin, bless him, managed to get out to get water and even lined up excursions for us for the next two days- let’s hope we are fit. Broke out late afternoon, both feeling weak but much better. Strolled to see my first Maoi, a row of four called Ahu vai uri and then along the magnificent Pacific coastline

Santiago, Chile

We had our last breakfast with our favourite waiter, smiley happy guy. Headed out to see the presidential palace (La Moneda Palace) and the changing of the guards. Unfortunately we got the wrong day based on the alternating days of the display. Walked up to the Belle Artes museum which is a cool central hall, very European in its architecture, art was a little disappointing though. We also popped into the visual arts museum which was more interesting in its installations, if not at times just strange. We then strolled down to Bella Italia the Italian quarter for a wander as Santiago heated up, we enjoyed refreshing gelato – think mine was basil and lime! Headed out to the airport with a bit of intrepidation as our Hostel for that night was not responding to emails etc. Lovely flight to Easter Island or Isle de Pascua as it is called locally, with a cheeky upgrade surprise for my birthday. Next 12 hours proved difficult as whilst the hostel all turned out fine, we both have gone down with what we think is food poisoning- probably those clams!

Santiago, Chile

Got started earlier today as we wanted to get to the top of Cerro San Cristobal, the cable car was not operating so we planned the short hike up before it got too hot. Fairly steep to start with and I was fairly worried when I saw the sign for toilets 370km to go…. clearly a misprint as we found some at the top! Great views of Santiago, no sign of the Andes that wrap round the city due to smog. I didn’t like to complain as the forest fires raging the coast are the worst in Chilean history, just been declared a state of emergency. Strolled back through hip Bellavista where we are staying next time in Santiago and checked out area. Took Justin to the famous Mercado Central where we tried crab & cheese gratin and clams topped with cheese. I’ve decided I don’t like clams, not even cheese can fix them, but the gratin was delicious. Quick dip in the pool, we then rounded off the day with hotdog and helados.

Santiago, Chile

Sombre morning at the museum of memories. This excellent museum presented a very factual account of the dictatorship from 1973-1989 including accounts of torture, murder and terror. It really brought to life several periods where basic human rights violations were common and over 40,000 people died. I can’t imagine living here during this time, which as a period of history wasn’t that long ago. I am also surprised that it wasn’t something I was aware of growing up, despite studying 20th century history. Enjoyed sedate pace for the rest of the day, swim in the pool and pizza.

Santiago, Chile

Interesting night spent with my stomach seemingly adjusting to Chilean ways, it was too hot and therefore did not feel my best heading down to the bus station. Purchased a new bus ticket and even managed to indicate I wanted a window seat….got on to find I had the window, the whole front on the top deck! Great place to be with sun streaming in as we wound round roads and my stomach tried to stay put. My reward for this and a short metro trip was the Crown Plaza, air conditioned room with free drinks and snack (courtesy of Justin’s hotel points). This was bliss. Justin arrived after a long, chaotic immigration session to find me checked in and snoozing on my comfy (4 pillow) bed. We went on a amble around the key points in the centre, grabbed an ice cream and spent an hour or two in the cool shade of Forestal park. Dinner was in a great restaurant where Justin also enjoyed a Pisco cocktail (he crashed by 10pm).

Viña del Mar, Chile

Amazing avocado on bread for breakfast with some fruit! Caught my first Uber down to Sotomayor and then on the light rail metro to Vina del Mar. I had high hopes for this beach edge town where the wealthy Santiago people spend their weekends in the summer. Fun hostal and friendly people, good to cool my feet in the Pacific Ocean but a bit crowded and high rise buildings make it feel like parts of Spanish coast. Realised I have lost my bus ticket back to Santiago, need to spend another £3.

Valparaíso, Chile

Woke up to mist this morning, after breakfasting on fresh bread & jams I set off in warmer clothes to Pablo Neruda’s house here in Valparaiso. Enjoyed a couple of hours roaming around the eclectic collections, interesting history to the pieces particularly those in the bar. The toilet off the bar has a fratwork door – only the most daring of guests would use. Strolled down the hill, looking at more graffiti and spotted the huge Mapuche mural on the side of a tall building, by this time the mist had made way for sun and I was sweltering. I caught a collective back up the hill for a shower and lighter clothes. I met Karen for one of the Valparaiso arts festival shows (very weird, think it was a dance about the farmed fish issues), enjoyed a stroll through Cemetery number 2 and finished dinner with a cold beer.i

Valparaíso, Chile

Took a free tour, great information and interaction for 3 hours. Started in the main square, Plaza Sotomayor before heading to Plaza Echaurren. There is a red line of bricks and subsequent markings that show where the shoreline was originally and how it has moved with land filling. Learnt about different classes and how the wealth was lost from stopping ships with the opening of the Panama Canel. Took the bus up to near where I am staying, Plaza Bismarck. Bus drivers earn based on passengers so they speed round bends to pick as many up as possible! Apparently the ticket gives you insurance if the bus is in an accident…. Saw the Cemetery, the former jail and also great graffiti on the way back down, before hopping on the trolley back to Serrano street. Met a lovely lady on the tour, Karen, so enjoyed a leisurely late lunch with her the shade before sitting on a rooftop to enjoy more of the great views of Valparaiso!

Valparaíso, Chile

Today I headed west to the colourful seaside port of Valparaiso. This meant my first ride on a Chilean bus (so much better than National Express!) and first time getting a collective (shared taxi). It has all gone relatively smoothly, with the use of the amazing google translate I even booked the bus back on Saturday. First impressions are good, lots of colourful houses, funicular railways and hills. The best bit is that it is at least 5 degrees cooler than Santiago!