Uyuni, Bolivia

Last night was difficult, I wasn’t cold but I think the altitude hit me as I have had a throbbing headache for most of the night. It could be dehydration as I haven’t drunk alot of water and I can’t breathe through my nose, so I am a joy this morning. I drink the rest of my water with a couple of paracetamols that I could find once everyone is awake. On a positive, I am already dressed! A bit of fresh deodorant and I am ready for the day ahead. We have proper American pancakes for breakfast albeit with dulce de leche rather than maple syrup but they are tasty. My headache goes pretty soon after we set off which is a relief. Our morning is spent at different points in Rocks Valley. It is pretty incredible walking through these high rocks that don’t seem to belong on the landscape. The group all enjoy scrambling and climbing the rocks before we move on. We reach a viewpoint where we can see down the vast Inca Canyon. It feels very strange to see such diverse landscapes on this trip and certainly not what I imagined Bolivia to look like. We move on and have lunch at the Black Lagoon, we are able to walk for a bit around the area and I wander alone to the other side to see Llamas. It is a beautiful and tranquil spot that has a lot of bird life as well, more a wetlands environment. Our last stop is a old train station that would have been active in transporting minerals across Bolivia, we stop to sample local beer including quinoa, cactus, cocoa and honey. Honey and quinoa were the better two, and we have kept the bottles ready for our salt flat pictures tomorrow. Tonight we stay on the edge of the salt flats, at a salt hotel. Two words ‘hot showers’ a bargain for 15p and it is bliss getting warm and clean tonight. A fun evening of cards, campfire and a cheeky bottle of wine with our chicken dinner makes for a great last night.

Sur Lípez, Bolivia

Shivani and I are up early again, this time the bags are packed and we are heading to Bolivia. The driver actually picks us up early which is a first in South America and has Shivani lamenting over having to ditch her morning cup of tea. I have been up for a few hours, slightly apprehensive about Bolivia and hoping the tour will be ok. We climb into the bus and there are 3 people already in, unbelievably it is a German girl, Larissa who I met in Salta and Vanessa who I sat next to on the bus to San Pedro. The fifth is a Israeli guy, Yuval but we don’t realise this is our group as when we booked there were 2 English on the tour. Chatting to them as we wait for the immigration office in San Pedro to open we realise this is our group and we have been bumped onto another company White & Green. There is nothing we can do about this, I think there were good reviews on them but time will tell. Stamping out of Chile is easy and we hop back in the bus to head for Bolivia. We stop stationary on the road outside San Pedro for 30mins, seems to be a blockade but the police turn up and just open the gate so it must have been a checkpoint of sorts. Once open the traffic is released at pace heading onwards for the border that is only about 20minutes away. The Bolivian border is high up, windy and dusty in the middle of mountains. For us the check in was straightforward, Yuval has a more complex process of 2 forms, passport photos and $100 US dollars. The Bolivian president made it harder as a protest against Israeli invasion of Palestine, makes me realise again what a privilege travelling on a British passport is. We transfer to our jeep and meet our driver Paulo, who seems nice and willing to speak in slow Spanish. Paulo explains that our tour companies are the same and we will follow the same route which is comforting. We get a good breakfast including good coffee served at the border. A bit of a laugh when Larissa can’t find a banana because a driver took one, and she questions each of us as to how many we have had. This earns her a nickname of ‘Banana girl’ and is the first sign we will all get on well. We shove our big rucksacks onto the top of the jeep where they are wrapped in tarpaulin and strapped down. Climbing into the jeep ( I get the front!) we set off into Bolivia, following tracks rather than road… The scenery is majestic and it’s not long before we have arrived at the White Lagoon, coloured by minerals it is vast. We stroll along the edge taking photos before climbing back into the jeep to head over the hill to the Green Lagoon (different minerals create a greener blue). We continue along the gravel tracks, enjoying a flat landscape framed by volcanos. In one section we stop to view the Dali rock desert. It looks like huge rocks dropped from the sky or perhaps out of a volcano and is named after Dali as it resembles his desert paintings. Onward to Salt Lagoon Chalviry which has lots of salt deposits, there are thermal pools you can sit in, but to be honest I cannot face the cold when you come out so I just take a walk around the shore. Lunch is surprisingly good with chicken stir fry and excellent mash potato eaten in a hut above the lagoon. The Morning sun geyser basin is our next stop, nice location but not as impressive as the Geyser Tatio area I saw in Chile. A couple in the group are starting to feel the effects of altitude, headaches and nausea but I am feeling okay. Our final stop of the day is the Lagunas Colorada or Red lagoon, and it lives up to its name almost looking like blood in patches from sediment and algae. This is the best spot of the day for me as it is filled with flamingos. There are 3 different types here, including James’s flamingos which are rare. I have no idea which are which but love watching them strut and fly across the shallow Lagoon. We then have 2 hours drive to our accommodation for the night in Villa Mar. It is fairly basic, all of us in one room but we get a couple of blankets and a sleeping bag to keep out the cold. It is freezing, but we have hot tea and break out the cards for a couple of hours entertainment. Dinner is a basic tomato and onion sauce with spaghetti, with water. There is another group with us of Brazilians who have brought vodka, but I decline their kind offer as I am not sure about mixing it with altitude tomorrow. If I am honest it is so cold I just want to go to bed, I make it to 8.30pm before climbing into the sleeping bag fully clothed and wrapping all the blankets around me.

San Pedro de Atacama, Chile

Early start as I crept out of the hostel this morning in the dark and made my way to the bus station. The bus is mainly tourists that I can tell and I recognise a couple to say ‘hola’ to. I am sat next to a nice Italian girl, Vanessa and the seats are pretty comfortable so I am hopeful for a good trip. I managed to make myself some banana sandwiches for breakfast this morning, despite the ticket promising food, I am never sure and this time I get a alfajore for breakfast…one! So happily tuck into my food stash. I sleep for the first 2 or 3 hours as we head north up to Purmamarca before turning west. I see the hill with seven colours for the third time and we pass across the Salinas Grandes which is as dazzling as the first time. This trip is 10 hours and it goes quite quickly with some amazing scenery to look at. The border crossing is okay, it still takes an hour and is a little confusing but it is nice to be off the bus in the cooler air. We eventually pull into San Pedro de Atacama around 5pm, initial impressions are of a small Wild West town but it is very tranquil and quiet. The hostel is very welcoming and I chat to a couple of guests over dinner (including a Dutch guy who is riding a motorbike from Columbia to Ushuaia!). I have a banging headache that I am putting down to the higher altitude, so I am tucked up in bed by 9pm.

Salta, Argentina

Today is my last in Argentina and I wake keen to have a good day. The city is a little grey and rain clouds are gathering. Looking through things to do, I can visit the Town hall museum for free so I make my way to the central plaza after my sweet breakfast. The town hall is a pretty impressive building with two cobbled inner courtyards. There is a massive flowering climbing plant in the courtyard with leaves like jasmine but orange long flowers (should have asked what it was!). The exhibition of inca pots was moderately interesting but the rest was a bit dull and totally in Spanish. I felt like it killed time so headed to the art museum for a bit of contemporary art. This was very small and textile based, some of the copper work was nice but otherwise not exciting. I felt like my day wasn’t very inspiring and with the grey weather elected to spend the afternoon chilling at the hostel. For my last supper, it had to be steak and Malbec. I decided to try Viejo Jacks that the tour guide recommended yesterday as it wasn’t far and they do a good steak. It was a very quiet restaurant with one other couple in it, I nearly turned round but thought I should give it a try. As I was seated the waiter asked me where I was from, and when I replied Southampton the couple smiled and said they too were from Southampton. Such a small world, and I asked if I could join them! They didn’t seem to mind and we had a good chat about home & travels over a decent steak. Nicky and Liam are following a similar route to me so I hope to see them again. Day turned out good in the end…. Don’t cry for me Argentina!

Salta, Argentina

In every city a good place to start is always the walking tour. They will generally be offered free and you tip what you think they have earnt over the 2 or 3 hours. I joined the tour in front of the cathedral, with about 8 other people on this grey and drizzley day. It was interesting, few things I learnt; Salta was originally called Saga by the Quechua which means ‘the beautiful’ but the Spanish could not pronounce it and so renamed it Salta. The pope visited in 1982 to try and inspire peace during the Falklands war. During his visit the 250k population swelled to 1.5million. The city houses are mainly of a neo-colonial style are built the same height as the road is wide to provide shade in the absence of trees. Salta is one of only two cities that has retained their original town hall in its entirety. Places like Buenos Aires have reduced theirs to make way for road expansions. We visited San Francisco church and then onto the Convent of San Bernado. Here there are 9 Carmelite nuns that live here with have a vow of silence but you can pass messages to them through a rotating door. The most impressive part of the adobe building is the carved algarrobo wooden entrance door. This was made in the 18th century and donated by a wealthy family when their daughter joined the convent. We visit the Gral Güemes memorial that celebrates independence won from Spanish rule by both local gouchos and Spanish army defectors led by Belgrano. Our guide points out a few restaurants he likes and then walks us to Belgrano plaza. The group is interesting and talking to two Aussie girls (Emma and Tamsin) we make plans to go to a peña this evening. I excitedly walk up to see if my phone is fixed and it is! It costs more due to new battery but £35 is a bargain to get it back all secure prior to heading to desert and Bolivia. The peña is in La Casa de la mollina, around 20minutes in a taxi from the centre. We order more traditional food of Locro (maize based soup with meat) and humitas. There is a male singer with guitar in part of the room and everyone seems to enjoy the folk style music, clapping away or singing along. Lovely atmosphere and evening for my penultimate night in Argentina.

Salta, Argentina

Today I need to do a few jobs, one of the most exciting days is Laundry day when you are travelling. You get your whole wardrobe back all fresh smelling and neatly folded, it’s a little thing that makes me skip to the Lavanderia. I also have a slight issue with my phone, the screen is lifting up at the top so I can see the inside of the phone. I have an elastic band trying to hold it tight but I am going to try and take it into a repair shop to get it fixed before I go to the dusty Atacama desert. I find a really small shop in the northern part of the city, and the guy seems genuine enough when he says he can repair for £10 and be done by 9pm. A whole day without my phone, definitely is my life so I hope it is ok. The Cathedral in Salta is such a pretty building that I am keen to have a look inside. The outside is a sugary pink colour and it reminds me of a fondant fancy. The inside is very grand and a painted ceiling leading to a gold shimmery altar. There is the traditional (slightly kitch) doll representing the Virgin Mary. The Cathedral also houses the tomb of Martín Miguel de Güemes who was a military leader who defended northwestern Argentina from the Spanish during the Argentine War of Independence. It is starting to warm up and as I walk down to San Martin park, I feel an ice cream is needed. There are plenty around, so I stop for 3 scoops. Chocolate, raspberry and a delicious apple sorbet. The park is a bit barren compared to other city parks but I am assuming the climate makes a difference here. From here I can take a cable car up to Cerro San Bernado where you can get a panoramic view of the city. It is a big city and I can easily pick out the sugar coloured churches I have visited. From the top you can walk down the hill, it’s a fair few hundred steps but good exercise. I don’t envy those climbing up as I pass them. Tonight I skip to pick up my laundry and then my phone. Bad news on the phone, the screen was lifting as the battery is overheating and expanding. Ernesto can put a new battery in but needs another day, it needs fixing so I agree and wander back to the hostel without it. Laundry smells good, and they have threaded string through my smalls to ensure none are lost = genius!